I arrive to Marianna Cimini’s corner at the Fashion Hub and she is waiting for me with a big smile. I met her last September during Fashion Week and I am very excited to see her again.
Big panels are standing behind the racks with just one word written on them: Helvetica. I ask her: “is that the name of the collection?”. She looks totally surprised by my question. “Not actually”, she answers, “but it could perfectly be! I hadn’t really thought about it!”. Marianna starts telling me about the importance of volume, graphics and structure in her collection. She realizes while she speaks how the Helvetica concept could actually be suitable for it.
In a very excited way, she lists up all the different fabrics that she has used to create this collection: silk organza, green and black tweed, washed silk, spot-printed silk, technical waterproof fabric, technical wool, cashmere wool and silk wool.
“The collection is inspired in the early 40’s, the postwar period, when people used to overlay and create new garments recycling old ones”. She then explains that she has tried to remain true to herself and to her taste. In fact, I soon realize that some of her SS13 silhouettes are recalled in the FW13 dresses.
The collection is an ode to sporty chic with a masculine touch and boxy overalls. Still I can see how Marianna has included a little bit of sexiness and a certain bonton allure that splashes her creations uniformly. There is a huge attention to detail and I notice it quickly just by looking at the contrasting linings. These clothes are made for walking and feeling absolutely fabulous all day long.
My eyes are all in a luxurious golden gilet that is shining under the spotlights. “Have you touched it? It’s made of plastic!”, says Marianna. I then put my hand over the garment and feel its thickness and its water-proof texture. Apparently, it has been created as a complement to the rest of the pieces in the collection. “People are surprised when they touch it, they all think it’s made of a completely different material”.
We then arrive to a mannequin that is wearing a statement blue coat and Marianna, with her eyes wide open, tells me: “this is my favourite item of the whole collection”. The cobalt blue coat with tweed stripes really is outstanding. She then takes it from the mannequin and tries it on. She tells me that she loves being protected by outerwear and that is the reason why it looks so inviting. Marianna plays with the lapels and shows me the versatility of the piece. “I actually created the pattern for this coat all by myself, it was the first time in my life that I did something like that. I really wanted to push myself further to see where I could actually get: I drew it, cut it and sewed it”. I am shaking.
“I wanted to create a woman’s wardrobe, not only a few pieces”, Marianna says while she guides me across her entire collection. I am speechless and she notices my weird face quickly. “What do you think so far?”, she asks me. I then come back to earth and can’t explain what my real thoughts are. “Pardon my Italian, I don’t know how to tell you how much I love it”. And it’s true. This collection, from A to Z, is so me.
I then have the feeling that I am cheating on the fashion designer that I just visited in the previous corner, Greta Castelli. I genuinely loved the style of her Viking-inspired collection. But I am also super excited about this very opposite collection by Marianna Cimini. I breathe in a relief and think to myself: “there’s plenty of space for the two of them in my wardrobe”.
Marianna Cimini and international models wearing her FW13 Collection at The Fashion Hub, Milan Fashion Week.
Stay tuned. Today I will be posting some great pictures from Marianna Cimini’s presentation at the Fashion Hub during Milan Fashion Week. Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana gave every emerging designer the possibility of having a group of models to make a photoshooting. I was lucky to be there on time!